Denim 1

This guide is based on the original Vallejo Game Color (VGC) paints. These colors may no longer exist by these codes/names, if at all.

Base/Shade:

 23 Electric Blue + touch of 11 Gory Red + 17 Sick Blue

Highlight 1:

23 Electric blue with a touch of 11 gory red

Highlight II:

Highlight I + 34 Bonewhite 

 

This is the original text I received from someone whose name I, unfortunately, do not remember.

For the base coat I use 23 Electric blue with a touch of 11 gory red to warm it up. I add 17 Sick blue to do the shading and add 34 Bonewhite for highlights.

The best method is to thin the highlight paint and draw thin lines around pockets , flys , and turnups to simulate where the washing machine rubs the colour off. Have a look at a pair of your own.

Finally, I add a tiny amount of yellow to the highlight paint and drybrush the knees and posterior where working jeans get most wear.

Actually, there are no hard and fast rules on the paint you use, as Jeans come in so many shades. The important thing to remember is most blues are too cold and need a little maroon (hardly noticeable) to make the shade richer.

Sir Thomas Glemham's Regiment of Foote (ECW)

This guide is based on Vallejo Model Color (VMC) paints.

This is one method I've used to paint the coats of Sir Thomas Glemham's Regiment of Foote for my English Civil War Royalist army.

Base/Shade
    VMC Dark Bluegrey
    
Highlight 1
    Base + VMC 992 Neutral Grey
    
Highlight 2
    Highlight 1 + VMC 992 Neutral Grey
    
Highlight 3
    VMC 870 Medium Sea Grey

Old Painting Notes

I just found a stack of old painting notes that I never got around to putting into an electronic format. Some of the paint colors are likely no longer available, or at least not in that particular name.

Incoming...

Paizo's Goblins

 Paizo's football-headed goblins look ridiculous.

End of the line

 After November 2023 you will no longer get here through the littlemetalmen.com domain. Working Federal Government jobs killed my love for writing code and I will not be renewing my hosting fee in November.

I will retain ownership of the littlemetalmen.com domain for a little longer in case I get the bug again, but right now I just don't care.

I'll leave the blog up but you'll have to access it directly.

Me

A quick note on...

 ... the old Wargames Factory Celt Cavalry.

Dreadful miniatures. For now I'll just leave it at all the right arms look like they've suffered from shoulder dislocation. Maybe I'm putting them on incorrectly but they look horrendous at every angle. I can only imagine the infantry types are just as dire. Maybe it's time I invested in some Victrix sets.

Disappearing Comments

 Looks like I'm the latest recipient of disappearing comments. This seems to be a longstanding issue and Google hasn't seen fit to rectify the situation for going on three years. Comments on older posts are still there but newer ones have disappeared. They must have pushed out some "new and improved" code after a piss poor performance by their QA team. There seems to be a lot of that going around these days.

WotR progress

I'm well on my way through cleaning up two boxes of the plastic Wars of the Roses Infantry figures from the Perry brothers. The obligatory mold lines aren't the worst I've ever seen but they're obviously there, and my OCD just won't allow them to stay!

While I haven't quite decided on the number of figures to do up for archers, billmen, and command, I have pretty much decided on a retinue thanks to my genealogy obsession and Citadel Six Custom Design. I'll keep that decision a mystery until I actually do a little more research and get these models ready to paint.

I just about have all the bodies cleaned up and plan on doing the heads next so I can get them attached for easier painting. The arms and weapons will also likely be painted separately, at least to a point, to make painting an easier task.

Now, if I can just stop watching Turnip28 videos and hold off that temptation for a while...

TRIUMPH! bases

I ordered and received my first bases (80mm frontage) for the Triumph! rules. Bases were ordered from two suppliers so I could determine a preference, not only for the material but also for the quality of the cut. The suppliers were as follows:

Atomic Laser Cut Designs (MDF)

Litko (plywood)

The Atomic Laser Cut Designs bases will be used for my Scots Isles & Highlands army, while the Litko bases will be used for my Viking army. Both sets of bases are 3mm thickness with depths of 30mm/40mm/80mm for the Scots Isles & Highlands army and 30mm/40mm for the Viking army.

While the MDF bases are a bit cheaper, the plywood ones may be better for allowing me to successfully attempt an idea I have for labeling each base with army and troop type info. If my initial attempt is successful I will post an "How-To" article.

Obligatory Three Year Post

I'm finally starting to get back into the world of miniatures after a few years down in the dumps. I'm looking into a few different rules with Triumph! and the Impetus variants currently leading the way for rules with a broad historical focus.

Nevermind the Billhooks and Test of Resolve are leading the pack for my eventual delving into the Wars of the Roses.

80mm width bases have been ordered for my 28mm Norse-Gael and Viking armies. These will be for use with the Triumph! rules. I'll need to order some 120mm bases for the Impetus rules.

Hopefully, I'll get back to working on some models soon. I'm close to having a workshop set up and once I've got that to the point where I deem it useful I'll get back to work assembling and painting.

British Khaki #3 (Vallejo Model Color)

Per Mike Starmer

1 part 70.822
1 part 70.888
7 parts 70.921

Paintus Interruptus

I will be moving within the next few months. Hobby stuff is back on hold while I pack all my crap and sell my place.

The Rob Hawkins Hobby Blog

Some good stuff here.

The Rob Hawkins Hobby Blog

Norman Invasion of the Workbench Part 1

And so it begins, my first real painting project in a few years. I'm going to attempt to do an "in progress" series on the painting of this group. We'll see if I still have any of the old skills left, especially with my eyes not what they used to be.

I finally decided on a Norman army for SAGA and the first pack I'm going to tackle is the Norman Characters (DA1042) from Black Tree Designs. These will be used as a unit of Hearthguard and will be based individually to allow them to be fielded for gaming in other rule systems.

Here they are in their natural state before the initial removal of flash and mold lines.

After the initial removal of flash and mold lines. This wasn't too terrible, but I quickly remembered my least favorite part of the hobby.

Inked with Liquitex Transparent Raw Umber Ink to pick out any missed mold lines. Decided to use the ink instead of primer for this step. For a while I would prime and ink, but with the Liquitex stuff the primer is unnecessary. Why use up primer when you don't need to?

Mold lines completely removed (or so I thought), ink stain washed off, and ready for primer. The primer (White Stynylrez) was applied with the Patriot 105 airbrush @ 30 PSI from about 6"-8" away.

The first coat of primer went on a little too lightly and had a slight dusty appearance. I've heard the white takes multiple coats to get good coverage, but decided to give it a little help just in case.

Second coat of primer. Added a little Liquitex Airbrush Medium to the Stynylrez. This went on a little wetter and smoothed out the primer. Missed a little bit of mold line on the guy with the spear. See it?

No need to call Commando Cody. It's just Maskol by Humbrol.

The next step will be to spray the primarily metallic areas with a black primer. This will be either Vallejo Surface Primer or Stynylrez, again applied with the Badger 105 Patriot.

Long Time, No Post

Wow. Over three years since my last post...

New posts coming soon. I've actually started a new project; Norman army for SAGA. The first few figures will be from the Black Tree Designs line. I just couldn't get those awkward Battlestandard sculpts to look right. It could be the flatness of the Vallejo Model Color paints I used on them. They'll get a Simple Green bath and another go to see if I can improve on them.

Eldar: Lugganath Craftworld Icon

Nice little article and download over at Bell of Lost Souls. This will come in useful if I ever decide to paint all those ancient Eldar models!

Black Green Highlight Method I

I was playing around with finishing up Citadel Familiar (Walking Book) and this actually ended up looking good. You may not have all the colors mentioned. I've been doing this a while and have a lot of OOP (sad face) products.

Thin Orkhide Shade Foundation (GW/Cit) with Thraka Green wash (GW/Cit) and then thin further with a very slight amount of H2O.

Brush this on all the raised areas.

Now add VMC 886 Green-Grey and another slight increase of H2O to the above mix and add to only the highest raised areas.

Brush on Citadel Yellow Glaze after this final highlight has dried. When this initial glaze has dried, do it again.

If you want to give a more greenish hue to the effect, brush on a final coat of Citadel Green Glaze.

Photos of model as soon as I get around to it.

Vallejo Game Colors gone bad

A word of warning to my fellow painters... Don't let your paints sit around for an extended period of time. I have quite a few bottles of Vallejo Game Color paints that have gone bad. They have turned gummy, chunky, or somewhere in between. So far it's mostly yellows and oranges that are suffering this fate.

Maybe it would be a good idea to at least give them a good shake every couple of weeks and keep the binder and pigment thoroughly mixed. It might also be advantageous to on occasion add a few drops of distilled water and/or Vallejo thinner.

This is probably a good warning for me to not buy a bottle of paint until I actually need it. Then again, my one (known) local supplier of VGC isn't open at 0300. :)

Vallejo Color Charts

These are links to the color chart PDFs on the Vallejo website.

• Game Color Chart
• Model Air Chart
• Model Color Chart
• Panzer Aces Chart
• Pigments Chart
• Surface Primer Chart

The Old CItadel Color paint sets

Many moons ago, Citadel Colour™ paints were sold in sets of nine bottles of paint or ink, except for the Metallic Paint Set, which contained only 6 bottles of various colors of metallic paints. In total, there were 7 sets of paints and one set of inks. The Space Marine Paint Set set also came with a small painting guide.

These sets began being released in the mid-late 1980's and were discontinued in the early-mid 1990's. Many of the colors no longer exist, or have been renamed, in the current Citadel Colour™ range. 

I do not have a conversion chart for the current range, or any other range of paints.

	1. Skull White   2. Chaos Black   3. Blood Red   4. Bronzed Flesh   5. Woodland Green   6. Enchanted Blue   7. Sunburst Yellow   8. Mithril Silver   9. Shining Gold
	1. Rotting Flesh   2. Goblin Green   3. Elf Grey   4. Worm Purple   5. Hobgoblin Orange   6. Orc Brown   7. Spearstaff Brown   8. Swamp Brown   9. Chainmail
	1. Brazen Brass   2. Bilious Green   3. Ghoul Grey   4. Bestial Brown   5. Electric Blue   6. Red Gore   7. Imperial Purple   8. Moody Blue   9. Titillating Pink
	1. Red Ink   2. Orange Ink   3. Yellow Ink   4. Green Ink   5. Blue Ink   6. Purple Ink   7. Brown Ink   8. Chestnut Ink   9. Black Ink
	1. Bolt Gun Metal   2. Salamander Green   3. Salamander Black   4. Ultramarine   5. Marine Dark Blue   6. Space Wolf Grey   7. Blue Grey   8. Blood Angel Orange   9. Terracotta
	1. Tin Bitz   2. Striking Scorpion Green   3. Bad Moon Yellow   4. Go Fasta Red   5. Ork Flesh   6. Snake-Bite Leather   7. Fire Dragon Crimson   8. Hawk Turquoise   9. Bleached Bone
	1. Fire Orange   2. Jungle Green   3. Sulphur Desert Yellow   4. Codex Grey   5. Battle Green   6. Horizon Blue   7. Nightworld Blue   8. Ash Waste Grey   9. Imperial Strike Green
	1. Polished Blue   2. Burnished Gold   3. Dwarf Bronze   4. Amethyst Purple   5. Beaten Copper   6. Glistening Green

All paint set box cover images, titles and paint names are owned, Registered ® and Copyrighted © by Games Workshop™. The content herein is provided only as reference material and is in no way meant to be portrayed as official content.